Restaurant review: Casa de Pasta serves classics

2022-09-11 18:58:11 By : Ms. Vicky Chen

The name pretty much sums it up. Casa de Pasta serves classic Italian-American fare in a brick building that was originally a house.

A mainstay in Canandaigua, the restaurant sits a block off Main Street. Inside, the bones of the house remain. The interior is divided into three cozy spaces: two dining rooms and a bar that seats seven. The environment is unassuming, with wood-grained wainscoting, burgundy walls and tables covered with burgundy tablecloths and white paper toppers. Daily specials are listed on chalkboards.

The menu is what you'd find in many Italian-American home kitchens — lasagna, stuffed shells, fusilli Bolognese, chicken French and the like. You can create a pasta dish just to your liking by choosing from a list of pastas, sauces, meats and veggies. The menu also features homemade gnocchi and a few steaks.

Chef/owner Joe Caito has made few changes since purchasing Casa de Pasta with Dale DeVinney in 2012. One was improving the complimentary bread service. The warm Italian bread was crusty on the outside, tender and chewy on the inside. We tried to exercise restraint as we slathered it with soft garlic butter.

My dining companion and I shared the arancini appetizer ($7.99). Spheres of soft risotto, studded with tiny carrots, were breaded and deep fried until the coating was golden and crunchy. When we cut into the balls with our forks, the rice held its shape, while melted fresh mozzarella cheese oozed out. We dragged forkfuls through a pool of well-bodied tomato sauce that coated the arancini. The sauce captured the essence of tomato without being too sweet or salty.

Our meals came with soup or a salad. The salad — lettuce, cucumbers, tomatoes, red onions and croutons — was fresh and crisp. Lobster bisque, available only on Fridays, was flavorful but thick and heavy.

The shrimp scampi ($19.95) was one of the better versions I've had, starting with the perfectly cooked, tender shrimp. Whereas scampi can be so pungent that you exude garlic through your breath and pores, this version balanced the garlic with white wine, lemon and paprika. Given the choice of linguini or risotto, I opted for the latter. In my head, I noted that the risotto rice should have been al dente, but my heart found the thick, cheesy, soft mound as deeply comforting as mashed potatoes. The dish also came with a side of tender zucchini with tomatoes.

One of the more unusual items on the menu was chicken riggies ($15.95), a dish often associated with Utica. The rigatoni were intertwined with grilled chicken, Italian sausage, peppers and tender-crisp onions. A tomato cream sauce, billed as mildly spicy, didn't have any kick, but nicely melded all the flavors.

For dessert, we shared a slice of chocolate cake ($5.95), baked in house by a member of the wait staff. (Other dessert choices included cheesecake, cannoli and gelato.) The tender cake had a yummy, thick chocolate fudge frosting, and was garnished with piped whipped cream and chocolate sauce.

Our servers were courteous and efficient. Courses came in a quick, but not rushed, progression. Dishes were cleared just after we put our forks down.

When we visited, a new outdoor patio was getting its finishing touches. It will create additional seating for a small place that fills up fast. We dined shortly after 5 on a Saturday evening, and the place was already doing a good business. I recommend a reservation, especially if you visit on a weekend in the busy summertime.

Freelance writer Tracy Schuhmacher reviews restaurants after a one-time visit.

Location: 125 Bemis St., Canandaigua; (585) 394-3710 or casa-de-pasta.com.

Hours: 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday; 5 to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday. Closed Sundays and Mondays.

Seating capacity: 80 inside, plus 24 or more when patio opens.

Diet: Several vegetarian choices. Whole wheat and gluten-free pasta available.

Handicapped accessibile: Yes, via a wheelchair ramp.

Kid friendly: Chef/co-owner Joe Caito says kids are welcome; kids menu and high chair available.

Parking: Lot next to restaurant.

Agatina's. 2967 Buffalo Road, Gates; (585) 426-0510. Italian and continental offerings.

Northside Inn. 311 N. Washington St., East Rochester; (585) 248-3470. Traditional pasta and Italian dishes.

Mr. Dominic's. 4699 Lake Ave.; (585) 730-5444. Traditional food, also in a converted house.